Fairing Construction
Fairing Construction |
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Date: December 2002 |
Chapter: 18.0 Fairings |
Section: Fuselage |
There is a template for cutting your cowling wing openings. I elected (foolishly) not to use this, since I knew from previous fittings that I wanted to move the cowling prop opening slightly to get a more even spacing around my spinner. DO NOT DO THIS, it is much harder this way, and caused me some rework (stick with me here). The mold makes the two pieces separated in the middle, this will be reconnected, and the cut line will be moved to below the wing for ease of maintenance.
Making the upper cowling cut for the wings
Trimming upper cowling to get an even spacing around the prop flowguide
Fitting cowling after cutting wing relief openings
Cowling wing openings cut, old cut line will be glassed back together
Here we've glassed the cowling together at the previous cut line, and glassed where we (accidentally) made the wing holes too big. It's really almost impossible not to make the whole too big without the template, since the cowling will not go inside of the wings to allow you to mark it. So, you end up cutting a bit, trying it, rinse, repeat.... Here we've glued tongue depressors inside the cowling, and duct taped a cardboard form seal the overly large openings.
Here we've glassed the old cut line and wing opening is dressed
Tongue depressors and duct tape forms
Glassing old cut line
Here we are cutting the new cowling cut line, and then duct taping the lower cowling, and glassing a new flange attached to the upper cowling down onto this tape, that will be used to screw the two halves together later.
Getting ready to cut new cut line
Prepared to cut
New cut line
New cut line
New cut line
This isn't needed on the XL, the wing extends into the cowling.
Here we've duct taped the upper cowling and sanded the wing surfaces down to the glass where the cowling meets it in preparation for the cowling flanges. This is a 5 BID layup that I wetted wing and the upper cowling, then wetted the glass out on plastic and folded in half and laid on top of the wing, set the upper cowling in place, and unfolded the layup onto the cowling. After cure the flange is trimmed back and the screw holes are piloted and clamped with clecos.
Upper Cowling Flange
Upper Cowling Flange
Upper Wing Flange and Upper-to-Lower Cowling Flange
Not done this way anymore, see NACAs in fuselage completion.
The lower cowling flanges are made in much the same way as the upper, except it is much harder because gravity is working against you, so after wetting the wing, cowling, and glass, I let it all get tacky. Then I tried to fold and apply it too early, got really aggravated, and just brute-forced it into place.
Lower Cowling Flanges and Screw Holes
Not done this way anymore, see NACAs in fuselage completion.
Here we marked where the oil access on the top of the motor is on the cowling, and cut a 5" hole. Then a 5 BID flange is made behind it in the standard way. Later the inside edge will be made straight with a hinge, and then a Hartwell latch door release will be riveted in place. Then the flange is trimmed back, and the area filled in for a smooth transition.
Door Cutout is Prepared
And Glued in Place for the Flange Layup
Oil Access Opening
Oil Hinge Installed
Filling Gaps Around Oil Door
We've installed the standard nutplates per the plans, but have elected to use Torx head screws rather than the normal 100 degree Phillips head.
This section is not required any more.
This section is not compete.
The first step in the pant installation is a laborious cut and fit exercise to make the cut-outs large enough for the tires, and creating an opening for the gear leg. Unfortunately the factory marked my pants for the gear cut-out on the front half, and I cut them before I realized that the fronts should not need to be cut (the leg should be entirely encased in the rear half of the pant). Next the pant brackets were bent to match the pants, and drilled to allow the axle bolts to pass through while the bracket is level. I made a paper template to figure out where to drill the holes. Next the two halves were mated together with nutplates spaced every 3". Next we'll be installing a spacer on the outboard side of the pant, in the end of the axle. This is a bit dicey, as I can't drill this with it on the plane, you can't get a drill in there, and with the new Cleveland brakes, you can't get the wheel off without removing some of the brake bolts. The spacer is held to the axle with the cotter pin that restrains the axle nut, and is threaded for a screw that pass through the pant to hold it in place. Also, a NACA duct will be created to vent the brake.
Fitting Pilot Side Rear Pant Half
Pilot Side Pant Rough-Fitted
Pilot Side Pant Fitted
Pilot Side Pant Fitted
Co-Pilot Pant Fitted
Co-Pilot Side Pant Fitted
Co-Pilot Pant Fitted
Co-Pilot Pant Fitted
This section is not required any more.
This section is not compete.
Our canard tips came already assembled with our fast build wings. We first then mixed pour foam and filled the tips, and sanded them level when cured.
Filling Canard tips with Pour Foam
Once cured, the tips are dry fitted to the canard. I'll need to relieve mine against the elevators and counterweights just a bit.
Canard Tip Dry Fitting
Once that's done, tip is bonded foam-to-foam with Micro and held in place with Bondo. Then you sand both parts and attach it permanently with a layer of BID, and then smooth the transitions out with filler.
Canard Tip BID into Place
This section is not compete.
~ End of Chapter ~ End of Section ~